I took an insane number of photos this trip. I’m breaking it all up into a few posts, but here are my faves from Friday, which I know as “EPIC JOURNEY from Cusco to Aguas Calientes Day”. And we’re off!
I’m fascinated by South American building. I took photos in Campos do Jordão for my dad, who’s building a house, but *these* ones felt worth sharing… Mud huts housing!
Mud huts are, of course, made by mud bricks:
Pre-roof, or an abandoned project?:
And when it comes to the roofing, it goes sticks and thatching, then clay tiles—got it, Andie?:
I was OBSESSED by the scenery and Marcella was OBSESSED with a bird game on her iPhone—lucky for me, because then I always get the window seats and I make good use of it. Most of these were taken from the train… so when there’s glare or a bad angle, you know why.
Cemetery in sepia:
working the field by hand—we saw ox-drawn ploughs and a lot of back-breaking farming going on…
A functional bridge:
It wasn’t all villages, though—there was also THE ANDES. LOVE the Andes:
Peaks like these next few, all snow-covered and only visible from the train’s roof windows, are clocking in at about 5,000m in elevation.
Wow:
Totally blue my mind. As in, “cerulean”. Heh.
I just can’t get enough / I just can’t get enough…
Have I mentioned that PeruRail pipes in PERMANENT PAN-FLUTE MUSIC? ‘Cause they do. I was pretty sure Marcella was going to jump. The look on her face says it all:
I am SO going to send her a copy of Zamfir’s greatest hits when I get home.
At this point, about halfway through the trip, they served our “snack”:
I provided my own water… and they gave me A LOT OF CARBS. That’s Peru, folks. You’ll come within a starchy carb of your life, even at altitude where baking is no laughing matter… What you see there was a “cinnamon bun” that tasted like the shellacking on the fancy-schmancy box… a “sandwich” made of bun, a whisper of mustard, and a sad looking square of ham (did not want), melons (which had been joined by watermelons—I actually ate those, but EW on the other melons), then there was a puffed rice / puffed quinoa mix—sorta squishy but edible, and then an unidentifiable fruit… possibly what inspired the little girl’s second round of illness.
And here’s the inside of the train during the snack period. Say hi to our unidentified Latino seatmates, right across the table *and* at the buffet at the top of Machu Picchu later—totally random, RUTHIE with the big honking sunglasses on, and to the farthest right is the little girl with altitude sickness… this was shortly after the first round of illness. Notice that she’s EATING. Crazy.
As the voyage went on, I spied… another PeruRail train:
and the porters for the Inca Trail trekkers—the locals are hired (and probably exploited terribly) to carry for the foreigners hiking to Machu Picchu. They start here, before the 4-day, 3-night hike:
And some of the helpers aren’t human:
By the time the Inca Trail started, there were ruins everywhere!
Small…
and large:
and the landscape became greener, the water more extreme—check out this erosion damage on the rock!
and then it was clear: we were in a whole new ecosystem—which almost reminded me of New Zealand, actually:
and again:
I think it’s because the mountains look carpeted… so pretty!
and then, ta da! Not even noon, but it felt like it could be midnight!
We had arrived!
Having dropped a kilometre in altitude, it felt AWESOME to be in Aguas Calientes:
and I got to engage in my red flower fetish:
once more, with feeling:
taken outside our Aguas Calientes home! This is it! It didn’t give us hand towels or soap! Our “Full American Breakfast” in the morning was bread, butter and jam! We slept in the “Matrimonial Room”! It had the world’s smallest double bed! But that’s OK!
Something was actually burning when we arrived in AC, and the air got smoky and opaque quickly—I worried for photo quality and was glad we weren’t going to Machu Picchu till the next day… but from the inside of Indio Feliz, nothing else mattered.
the curse of the mood lighting is that my pictures aren’t great—but how cute is it that they have a corner booth labeled “kissing place?”
Keeping with the naval theme, the fireplace had a serious rack:
They seated us next to the bar… but I wasn’t drinking at altitude (yet), so it was a wasted bounty. Heh.
I can’t tell you how the World Cup ended up there…
Marcella might be deep in thought pondering the decor… but actually, she’s playing “guess the dialect” of the Germans dining to her right. You can see the male half. The female half led to me introducing Marcella to the phrase “lazy eye”, which would come back to bite me in the ass the next night…
And at the end of it all, I can only show you the bread, butter, my agua con gaz, and Marcella’s PISCO SOUR, because none of the rest of my food shots turned out. Do people KNOW about Pisco Sours? I didn’t. Apparently, they’re traditionally Peruvian. I thought it tasted like a very cold, slightly more complex caipirinha, or “caipiriña” to the Spanish-speakers (which made Marcella’s teeth gnash). Pisco Sours are GREAT. They’re made with Pisco (a grape brandy), lime juice, sugar, ice, a splash of bitters, a pinch of cinnamon… and an egg white, all blended up. Lo:
And with that, oh my god, I’ve got about 2 more posts of photos from our trip to show you. Poor you. And as I write this, I’m packing for Rio, where we’re headed for the weekend. So there’s bound to be a lot of vacation on the blog for awhile. You’ve been warned…





































September 1st, 2011 at 20:51
one of my good friends in college LOVED zanfir. I cannot hear a pan flute without thinking of him, or the fun we had in college.
the photos are gorgeous, and the donkey is CUTE!!
you had me convinced I needed to try a pisco sour… until the egg white (just sounds ick to me…)
wonder if I could use one of my egg subs? chia?
the cerulean mountains are stunning! everything is!
September 1st, 2011 at 23:55
These pictures are fantastic! It’s such a treat to see ‘real’ images of South America – I have no concept of the place at all.
September 1st, 2011 at 23:56
PS. I realised that last sentence is no longer true – thanks to you, I am building up a selection of images and facts
September 2nd, 2011 at 07:41
Hahahahaha Zamir!
Fun-ny.
Love these – very, very envious.
I love travelling to places where you can’t see a Starbucks!
(you couldn’t see a Starbucks right?)
September 2nd, 2011 at 09:57
@ Kristina: you have GOT to be kidding!!! How painful for the rest of you! And the egg white came as a surprise to me, too—until we got the recipe card from Indio Feliz… it doesn’t add thickness, it’s a frothy, cold top… don’t know how to improvise that one.
And seriously: DO PEOPLE REALISE HOW INCREDIBLE PERU IS!?!? I had no idea!
September 2nd, 2011 at 09:58
@ Kari: I still don’t feel like I have a very complete idea (that’s the academic in me), and I think most of the world has no real clue about South America, either… if I’m helping move that forward, yay!
September 2nd, 2011 at 09:59
@ Andie: in Lima, yes—they have valet parking, which is VERY South American.
Don’t be jealous—I have a gift for someone related to you, so you can live vicariously!
September 3rd, 2011 at 05:13
Wow wow wow! The impressions I get from your photos are overwhelming – the beauty of the Andes, the river valleys among carpeted mountains, the incredible poverty and do-it-yourself atmosphere of that little villages and mud brick houses … And then the World Cup!
I just hope you didn’t feel too bad from all the terrible food! This easily spoils me a vacation by knocking me totally off. But at least, they have meat on the menu, no? A friend of mine (she’s a vegetarian) and her boyfriend traveled through South America for three months last year, and she lived on potatoes with mayonnaise for most of the time, which often was the only vegetarian thing they had … Now I imagine that she must also have eaten a ton of bread.
September 3rd, 2011 at 05:14
Oh, and yay for pictures and travel reports! Your blog is my vacation right now!
September 5th, 2011 at 17:46
@ Kath: the food wasn’t terrible—not when we were picking, anyway. It was only when it was included that we were a bit overloaded. Actually, Marcella didn’t think it was overly carb-y, only I did. Your friend probably ate quinoa, too—but there are definitely things you can eat besides potatoes and mayonnaise! I can’t imagine why they were restricted to that, unless they’re picky eaters, too. You make your own way travelling, ultimately!
September 5th, 2011 at 17:47
@ Kath: We aim to please!
September 15th, 2011 at 08:47
[...] to Peruvian duty free, I’m coming home with some Pisco to make Pisco Sours (still wrapped in its duty-free goodness—SO unphotogenic!), and a super-cheap bit of Bobbi [...]